Trying Out 3D Gaussian Splatting Part 4 (3D Printing Models Meshed with GS2Mesh)
Introduction
In my previous article, I used GS2Mesh to create a mesh model from a video.
▼This is the article:
In this post, I’ll be talking about 3D printing the generated 3D model. While there isn't much specific talk about 3D Gaussian Splatting itself here, being able to 3D print a model generated from just a video could be very useful. For my research, I'm interested in creating physical models of plants.
▼I am using a gaming laptop purchased for around 100,000 yen, running Windows 11.
▼Previous articles are here:
Fixing the Model
The Haniwa 3D model generated last time included the table it was sitting on as part of the mesh data.
First, I needed to remove those unnecessary parts using Blender.
▼I imported the .ply file into Blender with default settings.

▼It was imported at an angle.

I rotated it so the table mesh was roughly horizontal and deleted the unwanted sections.
▼I deleted the selected areas in Edit Mode.

▼This is what the data looked like after cleaning.

Since I planned to 3D print it, I made sure to cut the bottom so it was perfectly flat. Areas where the boundary between the Haniwa and the table was ambiguous could result in rough prints, so I slightly trimmed the base of the Haniwa itself during the deletion. Considering this editing step, it seems wise to place objects on a distinct pedestal when filming the video.
I then exported the model from Blender as an .obj file.
3D Printing the Output
I used the edited data to start the 3D printing process.
▼I am using the Prusa MK4 3D printer.
▼The Prusa MK 4 seems to be out of stock, but the MK4S appears to be available.
For the slicer, I used PrusaSlicer and imported the .obj file.
▼The model was imported like this:


There were some missing parts in the mesh, such as areas that were originally hollow. By right-clicking the model name and running the "Repair" function, these gaps were interpolated.
▼The repair algorithm was executed.

▼The previously hollow parts are now filled.


For supports, I decided to try the "organic" (tree-like) support settings this time.
▼Using the coarsest settings, the print time was about 40 minutes per piece.

I proceeded with the actual 3D printing.
▼This is what it looked like with the supports still attached.

▼And here it is after removing the supports.


When I imported it into the slicer, a message appeared regarding unit differences, and indeed, the physical result is smaller than the original object. I’ll need to adjust the scale for future prints.
▼I also printed several more to give away to children. I was able to print about 9 of them at once.

Finally
I can now 3D print 3D models generated from video footage. While some parts remain a bit rough, the general shape is captured well. If high precision is required, a dedicated 3D scanner would still be the way to go. However, it's impressive that this level of detail can be achieved just from a video without using laser scanning.
I look forward to filming more videos and turning them into 3D models.


